Andrew Fabrikant recently asked me why I embraced period jewelry in my life and in my career.

It actually was a little bit of serendipity. On a train ride to NYC shortly after I graduated college, I was conducting a job search. Unbeknownst to me, the Vice President of a large jewelry firm was sitting next to me and interviewing me for a position as an assistant jewelry buyer.

Next thing I knew, I got the job. And so began my entrée into the jewelry business!

So why was I particularly drawn to period jewelry? The reasons are many…

It began when I worked for a company that produced special estate jewelry events in stores. These pieces from the past intrigued me beyond words- the history behind them, the craftsmanship, and the styles designed to meet the ever-changing societal tastes and fashions of the day.

I was hooked!

So off I went to NYU to further my education in their Art & Appraisal Program with Joyce Jonas as my Professor and Jewelry Historian extraordinaire. Her inexhaustible knowledge and passion was so contagious that it cemented my eternal love affair with period jewelry.

Of course like many of you who are admirers of ‘historical jewelry’, I have my favorites.

When it comes to diamond jewelry, the Edwardian period was for me the most exquisite. (See my blog, Edwardian Period: Diamonds and Delicacy) Not only in design aesthetics, but in how the diamonds were so lovingly nestled in the most intricate of metal-work. It’s as if the diamonds were sewn into a lovely lace brocade dress.

Art Nouveau jewelry, another favorite, was in my opinion the most creative and artistically rendered jewelry ever to be created in the annals of jewelry history. Who but the masterful Rene Lalique, Philippe Wolfers, Georges Fouquet and Lucien Gaillard could create jewelry so imaginative and so stylized- it simply takes your breath away.

Of course my travels abroad almost always leaves an indelible mark on my sensibility; my trip to Vienna was no exception. Wiener Werksätte jewelry, created by Vienna’s great period artists and architects- Hoffmann, Moser, Czeschka and Peche- was a marvelous juxtaposition of semiprecious stones (like coral, lapis, bloodstone, jasper, moonstone, and agate) set almost like abstract miniature mosaics. The dis-harmony of these pieces is actually a visual delight for the eyes.

Last but not least, and perhaps my all-time favorite period jewelry is archaeological revival jewelry. Influenced by ancient Greek, Roman and Etruscan goldsmithing techniques, the exquisite granulation and fine filigree gold work executed by the great designers, Castellani, Giuliano and Fontenay, is masterful. For an article I wrote on ancient goldsmithing techniques, I was fortunate to have found in NYC a school, the Jewelry Arts Institute, that actually replicates this fine gold work which is literally a lost art.

I continue to be enamored with period jewelry and I have the great privilege here, at Andrew & Peter Fabrikant, to view some of the most extraordinary museum-quality jewelry and fabulous diamonds. (E.g. see my blogs on Graff’s Multi-Sapphire Necklace, VCA’s “Belvedere” necklace, Fancy Yellow Diamond Ring, Harry Winston’s Ruby & Diamond Necklace, Pol Bury’s Kinetic Bracelet, and the list goes on and on.)

And who knows what jeweled beauty will enter our doors today!

With the discovery of the incandescent light bulb in 1870, diamonds were worn en masse to capture a diamonds sparkle. Cartier, Tiffany, Boucheron, Faberge, and Mauboussin responded to this new fashion demand for diamonds and delicacy. Finely wrought platinum and diamond jewelry complemented decolleté dresses in pale hues were highly decorated in lace, embroidery, and fringes.

Like the 1990’s, Edwardian jewelry was also a period of “white” jewelry. Platinum became the favored metal for diamond jewelry as its malleability and strength made working intricate, pierced open-work into metal much easier than gold. Perhaps the most distinguishing characteristic that separated Edwardian jewels from other period jewelry was the masterful knife-edge technique which allowed diamonds-modern brilliants, rose-cuts, pear-shapes, marquise-cuts and briolettes- to be set into very intricately cutout designs; they actually appeared to be floating!

Spurred by a vast outpouring of diamonds from South African mines, platinum and diamonds dominated motifs featuring feminine bows, ribbons, swags, and flowers.

Popular styles included sautoir necklaces (a diamond chain terminating in an ornament), plaque pendants (round medallions usually with curved lines), negligée necklaces (irregularly shaped drop pendant), and dog collar choker necklaces (several rows of small pearls joined by an open-work diamond plaque) adorned the elegant Edwardian lady’s neck. Alexandra particularly liked the dog collar necklace as it beautifully hid a scar on her neck.

The Edwardian lady also wore lots of open-lacy jewelry imitating Maharajahs whom Queen Alexandra so admired.

Rings of this period were oftentimes navette-shaped rings and were generally bordered by thin bands of white, blue, and red enamel.

Snake bracelets remained popular from the previous Victorian period. Traces of 18th century rococo motifs were present, but with more subtle, geometric patterns which marked the beginnings of Art Deco design sensibility of the 1920’s and ‘30s.

Flower brooches, shaped like pansies, water lilies and violets accented with diamond petals, were highly sought after as ‘all things natural’ complemented the delicacy of this era’s sensibility.

This was also the period where jewels with ‘color’ were set with kunzites and peridots in order to highlight Alexandra’s favorite color- pink and Edward’s favorite color- green. Other stones in favor at the time were amethysts, Montana sapphires, fire and black opals, demantoid garnets (one of my personal favorites) and moonstones.

At the close of the Edwardian period, (which I believe produced some of the most extraordinarily beautiful jewels in the annals of jewelry history), we see the beginnings of Art Deco design slowly making its way into Edwardian jewelry. The introduction of subtle, geometric patterns in jewelry marked the end of an Edwardian delicacy in jewelry replaced now with Deco’s dramatic, bold jewelry.

At Andrew and Peter Fabrikant, we would like to acknowledge the 175th Anniversary of an American Icon- Tiffany & Co. We respect the integrity and the quality of the Tiffany standard of excellence.  W frequently buy Tiffany diamonds and jewelry and we sell Tiffany diamonds and jewelry as our international clientele embraces ‘all things Tiffany!’

In celebration of their anniversary, Tiffany is showcasing their “Tiffany Yellow” diamond. This stunning fancy yellow diamond, weighing 128.52 cts., set in a new platinum and diamond setting, will be en route to Beijing, Tokyo and Dubai for a myriad of Anniversary events before returning home to NYC.

Discovered in 1877 in a Kimberley diamond mine in South Africa, this impressive “Tiffany Yellow” is considered one of the most notable fancy colored diamonds in history. (We were fortunate to be the proud owners of an intense fancy yellow cushion-cut diamond. See our blog, A Golden Opportunity)

But this wasn’t the first time this golden lady was the guest of honor at a special Tiffany Event. At a Tiffany Ball in Newport, Rhode Island in 1957, it graced the neck of society grand dame, Mrs. Sheldon Whitehouse. And the lovely Audrey Hepburn wore this spectacular golden gem in a 1961 publicity photo for the beloved film, Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

For its anniversary, Tiffany & Co. has also introduced “Rubedo”; its new metallurgy innovation comprised of a melange of gold, silver and copper debuting in its
new 1837 Collection.

Some fascinating historical vignettes about Tiffany; President Lincoln bought his wife a Tiffany seed pearl necklace to wear at his 1861 inauguration, the famous ‘Tiffany blue’ color was chosen because it was the favorite color of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, Lady Bird Johnson used Tiffany china in the White House, Tiffany makes trophies for the Super Bowl, NASCAR and horse racing events, and in 2000, The Tiffany & Co. Foundation was established to provide grants to nonprofit organizations working in two main program areas-the environment and the arts.

On the show, Sunday Morning, Tiffany’s Chairman and CEO Michael Kowalski summed up Tiffany’s enduring appeal this way,” Luxury here was (and still is) defined not as something aristocratic, not as something that excluded people, but rather we have an inclusive, welcoming vision of luxury.”

Written by: Andrew Fabrikant

Years ago, Peter’s father ran an advertisement that explained that an “expert informs.”

Recently, an elegant woman in her early 70’s entered our office. She was very nervous and upset about an experience that she had with a jeweler she saw previously and was sure that all of us in the estate jewelry business would treat her the same way.

It seems she had gone to “the family jeweler” and he had upset her greatly.  She was trying to sell a 3.33 carat round diamond that was of exceptionally nice quality.  The jeweler at first asked her, “What do you want for the diamond?” Upon stating that it was her mothers originally and she did not know what it was worth, he offered $10,000 dollars for it.

She asked if that was all it was worth and if so, she would keep it.  The jeweler then asked again what she wanted for it and took umbrage when she did not have an answer.   By the time she left he was offering $30,000 dollars for it and told her she was silly not to take it.

Feeling nervous and betrayed she left and later was in our offices and still angry.

Of course we did not know of her first experience until after our meeting.

Sam Zuckerberg has known and worked with us for over 30 years and was the first person from our office to meet her.  He introduced himself and asked how we could be of assistance.

Sam studied the diamond ring and suggested that although it needed to be cleaned, the diamond was of fine quality and that it could be worth $30,000-$40,000.  Sam stated that he would like to clean the diamond (in front of her) and perhaps consult with either Peter or I.

After cleaning the ring he asked me to come in and consult with him about the value of the diamond.

When I entered the room and examined the diamond I agreed with Sam’s numbers and informed our client about the diamonds characteristics and how and why we came to the value conclusion we did.

She exhaled a sigh of relief and conveyed her experience with the other jeweler.  She was then quick to thank us for sharing our thoughts with her without asking her what she wanted for the diamond, or by starting at an incredibly low number.

With her permission we removed the diamond from the mounting, enabling us to precisely examine the stone.  We were able to complete, as she said, what was a “professional and informative experience” allowing her to make an informed decision.

My uncle was correct that an “expert informs”, and by providing her with our knowledge and guidance we were able to help a client make an intelligent decision to sell her diamond ring and make another friend of our family.

As Springtime is in the air much earlier than expected, flora and fauna has been ever present on my mind. And not only what’s blossoming outdoors, but what’s blooming and buzzing indoors. One might refer to these as ‘jeweled imitators!’

So I want to take you on a nature hike, so to speak, of the jewels created over time that exalts the beauty of the natural world.

There was rarely a time in jewelry history that designers and great jewelry houses did not pay homage to nature. It’s also no wonder that when trying to recreate the sublime
colors of nature, that designers turned to gemstones as their medium.

The “Golden Days” of naturalism in jewelry occurred the 19th and 20th centuries and jewelry reflected nature down to its finest detail, especially floral and foliate motifs. Exploration into exotic lands provided botanical inspiration for floral jewelry which reflected Victorians’ insatiable interest in horticulture. Tiffany’s orchid jewelry at that time is a stunning example of how flowers can be recreated as a jeweled object. This naturalist fever in the 19th century also produced some of the most highly prized insect jewelry to date, particularly butterflies, lizards and frogs (although actually amphibians.)

The latter part of the 19th Century saw artistically rendered Art Nouveau jewelry considered by many to be the most unique and masterfully executed
naturalistic jewelry to date. In this period’s jewels, imagery was very symbolic- bats for nighttime and butterflies for daytime. Lalique jewels were particularly imaginative- hair combs in the shape of birds and brooches of wasps! Plique-a-jour enameling also reached a new pinnacle; a dragonfly wing, for example, looked like tiny stained-glass windows.

Nature designs in jewelry declined in the Deco period as strong geometric and sleek designs were paramount. Naturalism however, returned in the 1930s to 1960s when notable designers like Fulco di Verdura, Seamen Schepps, and Tiffany’s Jean Schlumberger created highly stylized, colorful and fanciful creatures. David Webb revived the animal ‘terminal’ jewelry similar to 19th century archaeological jewelry but bolder, with strong enamel colors.;

The latter part of the 20th century saw an influx of all gold or gem-set flowers, leaves and butterflies by JAR Paris, Buccellati, and other fine
jewelry designers. Some noteworthy collections include Bulgari’s ‘Naturalia’ collection in 1991, Tiffany’s Nature Sponsorships in 1997, and a special exhibition at the
Museum of Fine Arts In Houston of Cartier Jewels in 2005 showed a wondrous display of naturalistic designed jewelry. And speaking of Cartier, who can
forget one of the most famous jewels created in 1949 for the Duchess of Windsor ‘The Panther” which was encrusted with diamonds and sapphires sitting atop a 152.35 cabochon-cut sapphire!

Today, anything goes, including jewels inspired by, or copied from, antique pieces. But there are still some fresh contemporary jeweled interpretations of nature. Some of these makers with their own ‘signature styles’ include Celllini’s striking gemstone butterflies and flowers, Russell Trusso’s enamel orchids, Aaron
Henry’s ‘Arbor’ leaves and Ella Gafter’s cornucopia of pearl & gemstone flowers and birds jewels.

Undoubtedly the natural world will continue to fascinate designers who wish to capture its ephemeral beauty into these tiny jeweled objects d’art.

The most valuable of sapphires are mined in Kashmir and Burma, like the Burmese sapphire featured in our article, Sapphire Savvy.

The famous sapphire worn by Kate Middleton, previously owned by the late Princess Diana, is originally from Sri Lanka.  Surrounded by round diamonds, this sapphire
ring is one of our favorites.

Other rare and highly desirable sapphires are Padparadscha Sapphires.  Padparadscha Sapphires exhibit a beautiful pink and orange color and also originate from Sri Lanka, but can also be found today in Vietnam and parts of Africa.

Various treatments to sapphires have evolved to make sapphires much more affordable.  While they do still exist, finding a sizable ‘natural’ sapphire today without some form of treatment is rare.

Proper testing by a reputable gem laboratory is needed to determine whether a sapphire has been heat-treated, clarity enhanced and its country of origin.  Once determined that a sapphire has not been treated in any way, it is no surprise that the value of the sapphire rises significantly.  We, at Andrew & Peter Fabrikant can offer laboratory services that will help you determine country of origin and value.  If you would like to know more, please contact us now.

To learn more about the beautiful Sapphire, “the bestower of truth”, visit our full article, Sapphire Savvy.

The most valuable of sapphires are mined in Kashmir and Burma, like the Burmese sapphire featured in our article, Sapphire Savvy.

The famous sapphire worn by Kate Middleton, previously owned by the late Princess Diana, is originally from Sri Lanka.  Surrounded by round diamonds, this sapphire
ring is one of our favorites.

Other rare and highly desirable sapphires are Padparadscha Sapphires.  Padparadscha Sapphires exhibit a beautiful pink and orange color and also originate from Sri Lanka, but can also be found today in Vietnam and parts of Africa.

Various treatments to sapphires have evolved to make sapphires much more affordable.  While they do still exist, finding a sizable ‘natural’ sapphire today without some form of treatment is rare.

Proper testing by a reputable gem laboratory is needed to determine whether a sapphire has been heat-treated, clarity enhanced and its country of origin.  Once determined that a sapphire has not been treated in any way, it is no surprise that the value of the sapphire rises significantly.  We, at Andrew & Peter Fabrikant can offer laboratory services that will help you determine country of origin and value.  If you would like to know more, please contact us now.

To learn more about the beautiful Sapphire, “the bestower of truth”, visit our full article, Sapphire Savvy.

Over the years, we at Andrew & Peter Fabrikant have unfortunately seen clients lose opportunities to achieve fantastic prices for their jewelry because the jewelry is not intact.  Selling the jewelry of a recently passed loved one is a stressful experience. Before you make drastic decisions on how to equally distribute jewelry between family members, visit a diamond and estate jewelry-buying expert.  Please, do not take apart a piece of jewelry.  Don’t do it.  Do not, do not. You and your family will end
up losing almost every time.

Recently I had a brother and sister visit our office.  They came in to sell 15 Old Mine Cut Round Diamond Stones.  They were fantastic diamonds.  At .20 cts each there was a total of three carats of nice white and clean diamonds.  Upon asking them where the piece was that the diamonds had come from, they described an antique straight-line diamond bracelet. These are very popular and salable today.  Of course I asked if they had the bracelet and the rest of the diamonds that came out of it.

They explained to me that their other sibling insisted on having the bracelet broken up and the diamonds shared.  They had the bracelet itself melted and sold for its platinum.  Bracelets like this that are in good condition with this level of quality diamonds can be worth $600 to $1,100 per carat.  This bracelet would have been worth between $5,000 and $7,000.

Disassembled, the value was decreased to just under $1,000.

The moral of this story is: do not, I repeat, do not take apart a piece of jewelry for the sum of its parts.  There are times when it is appropriate for a professional to do so after careful consideration.  Rarely does this ever work out for those outside of the trade.

If you are considering selling jewelry, visit the diamond professionals, Andrew & Peter Fabrikant.

It may be cliché but I bet you have at least 3 months mortgage payments in your jewelry box or drawer.  There may be a condo in your safety deposit box. A trip around the world may be sitting in the darkness of your vault.

I have been buying diamonds, gold jewelry and gemstones for more than twenty years and in that time I have come to the conclusion that no matter the current financial condition of our clients, they always seem to have the equivalent of at least 3 months rent or mortgage payments in unused jewelry within their possession.

Whether in the jewelry box, the safety deposit box, or hidden in the place you forgot, your unused, unwanted, previous relationship, or out of style jewelry has value. Sometimes your diamonds and jewelry have much more value than you would expect.

Very often people are amazed at how much value their collection of jewelry holds.  Several months ago I spoke to a woman who was sure that her out of style and broken jewelry had no value.  We assured her that we would be happy to help her even if it were just a few pieces of gold and she visited our office.

After evaluating her small diamonds and the tremendous amount of gold she had amassed over the years, we ended up paying her a whole lot more than just three months mortgage payment.

In fact, we issued a check to her two grandchildren for $36,000 each; all from the jewelry she no longer wore.

Take a tip from our many clients who have taken cruises around the world, paid off their mortgages, and have bought condominiums with money earned from their unwanted jewelry.  If you look closely, you may find that your forgotten, broken, or unworn jewelry pieces are assets waiting to be discovered.

Ever have one of those days that’s simply golden?

That’s how we, at Andrew & Peter Fabrikant, felt when we purchased these two beautiful Buccellati pieces. Laden in luscious gold, the wide cuff is fashioned in 18kt, delicately hand-finished and accented with round-cut diamonds set in quatrefoil motifs.  The Florentine pattern leaf necklace is so detailed in its rendering, that you would think a real leaf lay beneath layers of gold.

Buccellati Cuff Bracelet

Noted for their extraordinary textural gold work, Buccellati jewelry is reminiscent of Venetian lace and brocade. Their detailed hand-finishing (like the featured cuff), gives the illusion of damask linen. Flowers, leaves (like the featured leaf necklace), vegetables, animal and marine life are also prominent themes in their jewelry as Gianmaria Buccellati is a nature enthusiast.

Buccellati Gold Leaf Necklace

Buccellati has a rich history. Established in 1919, company founder, Mario Buccellati, was an accomplished designer who paid homage to the Renaissance jewelry masters by reinterpreting the styles of the period. So enamored was Mario with the gold artistry of the past, he was dubbed the “Prince of the Goldsmiths” by the famous poet Gabriele D’Annunzio. The family tradition of retaining the craftsmanship of the past with today’s style sensibility is carried on today by Mario’s son Gianmaria and his son Andrea.

No matter their design aesthetics, the Buccellati style is always Bellissimio!